Surf zone surface retention on a rip-channeled beach

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Surf zone surface retention on a rip-channeled beach

[1] The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a period of 3 days with normally incident swell...

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[1] Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and larger waves. Rip currents cause material to d...

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Numerical simulations of larval transport into a rip-channeled surf zone

Competent larvae of intertidal invertebrates have to migrate toward shore for settlement; however, their migration through the surf zone is not understood. We investigated larval transport mechanisms at a ripchanneled beach. Because tracking larvae in the surf zone is infeasible, we used a three-dimensional biophysical model to simulate the processes. The coupled model consists of a physical mo...

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Transport of larvae and detritus across the surf zone of a steep reflective pocket beach

Larvae of many intertidal species develop offshore and must cross the surf zone to complete their onshore migration to adult habitats. Depending on hydrodynamics, the surf zone may limit this migration, especially on reflective rocky shores. As a logistically tractable analog of a rocky shore environment, we carried out a comprehensive biological and physical study of the hydrodynamics of a ste...

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Scaling surf zone turbulence

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ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research

سال: 2009

ISSN: 0148-0227

DOI: 10.1029/2008jc005153